HM Lang | Krems | Grüner Veltliner Riede Braunsdorfer “Fuchs & Dachs” | 2020 | 750ml | bio

Description

Product description for HM Lang Grüner Veltliner Riede Braunsdorfer “Fuchs & Dachs” 2020 (bio)

Information about the wine

The Grüner Veltliner is grown in the Steiner Braunsdorfer vineyard in a tributary of the Danube, with four to five meters of loess soil on bare rock. The site is very steep, and the vines are planted on small terraces around four to five meters deep. They are around 50 years old. The Langs have been cultivating them for four years and have converted to Demeter certification. The vines have a 2.4 meter high canopy. The site is located at around 250 meters above sea level. This wine also contains a small proportion of grapes from 90-year-old Steiner Schreck vines, which are largely used for the GV Dritte Akt (Third Act). The name of this wine comes from the fact that badgers have their dens in the loess soil in this vineyard. In cold winters, foxes often come by and lie down with the badgers until it warms up again. The harvest took place on September 13th and 19th. Markus Lang harvested at a pH of 3. This early harvest resulted in an alcohol content of only 10.5% vol. The vine was pressed extremely slowly over two days on a self-designed 100-ton wooden press. The pressing process itself was completely reductive, but afterward the juice was allowed time to brown, meaning it was deliberately exposed to oxidation. The juice fermented spontaneously; the first portion was aged in a stoneware amphora, the second portion in a 600ml wooden barrel from Stockinger. It was filled unfiltered in March 2022 at a pH of 3.1. During fermentation, Lang adds 5 to 6% of stemless berries, which ferment intercellularly (as in carbonic maceration), thus continually re-initiating the fermentation process despite the constant 9°C in the cellar. Later, the wine is minimally sulfurized over several days. Lang added 8% Riesling to the wine this vintage.

Colour

Light straw yellow

Nose

The Fuchs und Dachs (Fox and Badger) has a refined and elegant, clear and precise aroma, and I allow it to develop in a Burgundy glass. Decanting it doesn’t hurt either. What flows from the glass is a very unique interpretation of Grüner Veltliner, where the inherent spiciness is just one component among many and blends immediately into the overall picture. The wine is more reminiscent of Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses, or Saint-Romain than of the Krems Valley. The aromas consist of light blossoms, yellow citrus notes with a few dashes of lime, with stone and lichen, mint, a touch of mirabelle plum, a light component of yeast, and a hint of wood. You immediately notice the proximity to Kalt und Klar, but the notes here are somewhat warmer, not quite as purist, but subtle and very fine.

Palate

The wine’s origins are more noticeable on the palate than in the aroma. The spicy and slightly peppery notes of Grüner Veltliner flash up more frequently. Fundamentally, Markus Lang’s lean and complex, firm and energetic style is also evident here. Additionally, despite its crystal-clear, powerful acidity, Fuchs und Dachs is a wine with a fine, creamy texture and a fine yeast imprint with a touch of oxidized stone fruit and a hint of wood, which adds a slightly exotic component to the wine. The finish becomes saltier and more mouthwatering by the minute, making it impossible to put down the wine.

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Keywords: HM Lang Grüner Veltliner Riede Braunsdorfer “Fuchs & Dachs” 2020 bio Krems Austria

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